NYC Study Tour: Create-A-Marker

Briefly, research and describe the company/brand.

Create-A-Marker is an NYC based marking and grading company. His company is one of the best in the business, and one of the only companies of its kind left in New York, and the United States. Paul Cavazza, the owner, has been in the fashion business for a very long time but in a way, we don’t really think about a lot. Pauls family has been in the garment manufacturing business for generations. So he grew up knowing a lot about how to sew, and basic garment construction. He actually ended up going to the Fashion Institute of Technology for design but soon discovered it wasn’t the right fit for him. He changed his major to production management and started to learn about CAD (Computer Aided Design) programs that could really help with marking and grading. He went on to start Create-A-Marker and was one of the first marking and grading companies to use CAD. Paul now owns and operates both Create-A-Marker and a design paper and muslin company.

Observations:  Thoughtful observations and reflections made during the appointment itself.  What did you learn about the fashion industry?

I think this was a great company for us to visit. It really gives us an inside look at the steps that it takes to make a garment on a large scale. These are the kinds of decisions that buyers and merchandisers make all the time and Paul and his team are executing them. My favorite part of the appointment was seeing the laser cutter and talking about how to make markers for leather. At my previous job, I worked for a leather company and I was basically manually marking the hide. Since leather has no grain line and often has imperfections that we want to hide you almost have to. But Paul showed us this amazing machine that can scan the hide and maximize the efficiency and then laser cut out all the pieces for you. So basically my entire job, that takes me hours to do, this machine can do it twenty minutes! It was a really cool experience. I really enjoyed seeing that machine in action.

Briefly, describe the difference between marking and grading.

Marking is the process of moving around the necessary pattern pieces for a garment in a way that utilizes the maximum amount of fabric. This task is a super important step in apparel manufacturing because it can really effect the cost of a garment. If you’re using more fabric the cost of your final garment will be higher because you’re paying for fabric waste as well. The second part of this business is grading patterns. Which is basically the process of taking a base garment and making it into a range of sizes. Which could be taking it into a size run like, 0 – 10 or from XS – XL. This is also a really important step in the apparel manufacturing process because you want to make sure that the garment looks consistent through out sizes. There are grading rules but a lot of the times you have to communicate with the designer exactly what they want so that it when it goes into production you’re getting the product you want.

That 70s Fashion Week

There's been a lot of gaps in my knowledge of TV and movies over the years. For example, I just watched Friends in its entirety for the very first time last year. Think about a give who has never seen Sex and the City until her senior year of college, yeah that's me. Well, I recently discovered another missing piece of iconic TV that I needed to watch - That 70s Show. Let's just say I'm completely obsessed. Every outfit I try on now is "So Jackie" or "So Donna". I even went out of my way to find the perfect pair of orange tinted aviators so I can feel more like Hyde. Naturally, the 70s inspired fashion really caught my eye at New York Fashion Week. 

Zimmermann S/S 18 Ready to Wear

Zimmermann is an Australian fashion brand that is known for its effortless style. They also sell a lot of swimwear because we all know those Australians live in their swimsuits. But they're ready to wear has been worn by so many fashion bloggers here in the states that I recognized their name right away. Most of their designs have a little bit of a vintage feeling but they play around a lot with sophistication and current trends.  

Krystal Bick, Jenny Cipoletti, and Amiee Song in Zimmermann

Their S/S 2018 collection that was shown at NYFW definitely had that 70s vibe. Plunging V-necklines, textured embroidery, wide legged pants, and a little peasant sleeve. It channels the bohemian style of the 70s while still being modern and fresh for spring. The floral print has soft yellow and orange tones that give it a nostalgic feeling but its paired with the more modern silhouettes throughout the collection. The other main textile is a crisp white material, its made interesting by adding textured appliqués and embroidery which nods to the maximalism that was going on in the 70s as well. Overall I'd say this collection is Jackie approved and will be seen on all our favorite bloggers come spring. 

Alice + Olivia S/S 18 Ready to Wear

Alice + Olivia is a contemporary women's brand started by Stacey Bendet in 2002. She has done an amazing job of growing her brand over the past 15 years, expanding into shoes, handbags, and accessories. I remember finding her designs in magazines when I was in middle school and falling in love with the whimsical and playful quality she brings to clothing. Well, its years later and she is still staying true to that. This collection is bright, young and has a very retro vibe. The long embroidered dresses and matching pantsuits are combining the Woodstock girl with a Saturday Night Fever lady and I love it all. Its the textiles that really make this collection feel the 70s. Her combination of prints, texture, and color is always bold but somehow still modern. I think the girls of That 70s Show would love this collection, which means I love this collection.

Monday Inspiration

Sundays are my only day off in the week so naturally they involve a lot of running errands and tidying up life. So today I went down to Chelsea to get some groceries but ended up wandering for a little. I walked over to the flatiron building to stand by tourists and window shopped at the stores on 5th. I love going shopping to just style outfits. I usually don't even buy anything, its more fun to just see the way the stores are merchandised and get a feel for all the new fall trends. Recently I have been feeling very inspired by the 70s. I look for that 70s feeling in everything. I love flared jeans, burnt oranges, and a printed blouse that somehow has a nostalgic quality. 

I've been inside my head a lot lately. And while running with two, too heavy bags of groceries to catch the 1 before it left the station I think I felt the first little bit of kindness I've ever received in New York. While trying to hold both bags and swipe my metro card the train operator saw me struggling and held the door. Sounds like just a little good deed. But theres a lot less midwestern kindness here so I'm taking everything I can get. I feel like I'm starting to find my place here.

I've been listening to Maggie Rogers on repeat this week. If you haven't already watched this Tiny Desk Concert you should. Her music reminds me of summer at home in Ohio. 

 

NYC Study Tour: AERIN

Briefly, research and describe the company/brand.

Aerin is a luxury lifestyle brand created by Aerin Lauder, a woman with a last name you might recognize. Estee Lauder, her grandmother, founded Estee Lauder cosmetics in 1946 which now owns brands like MAC Cosmetics, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, and Smashbox. While Aerin was very inspired by her grandmother she wanted to shift her focus to home goods and accessories. For her, style goes beyond her makeup bag. Her sophisticated and classic home goods include golden picture frames, textured vases, and velvet jewelry boxes. She also has a small line of women’s accessories, and of course a few cosmetics as well. All her pieces add a touch of simple feminine elegance to a space. Aerin Lauder started her company at almost the same age that her grandmother started her company back in the 1940s. Now Aerin products are carried in the same luxury department stores as Estee Lauder cosmetics, like Saks Fifth Ave., Bergdorf Goodmans, and Neiman Marcus. She is living up to her family name and doing it in a way that is all her own.

Thoughtful observations and reflections made during the appointment itself.  What did you learn about the industry?  Specific jobs?  Your own potential career path?

I thought Aerin was a very interesting company for us to visit. They’re still a relatively young and attract a pretty specific customer so it was great to see how they’re working through those beginning stages of defining their brand and focusing their product line. I’ve worked with a lot of very small companies that are locally owned and operated so to see such a large company start on such a huge scale was really eye-opening. I loved talking to Joe and Yoon about product development and how they go about making prototypes and seeing things to fruition because that’s a job I used to be a part of but in such a different way. I love problem solving, figuring out how customers will react, and working on fitting a new product into the line. I think being on a product development team for a company like Aerin would be a great career path for me. I like to be hands-on in production, focusing on a target market, and thinking about things like costing. But beyond that I really want to be able to play a role in the actual creation of a product, like how Yoon does. Before I came to New York was actually manufacturing products that were sold; cutting, prepping, working on preproduction stages. Which is kind of what Yoon did in the early stages of her career as a jeweler. But there is a way to be that hands-on but not be actually manufacturing and it is in designing products and working with a logistics team to make it happen in factories. So it was cool to see how I can translate what I enjoyed in manufacturing into a more universal or tangible job.

Discuss something in particular that Joe, Yoon, or anyone else you met shared that resonated with you.

It was great to hear about how both Joe and Yoon found their way to Aerin. Like anything in life, it’s a journey to get where you want to be and you almost always end up happy somewhere you’d least expect it. So that was really eye opening and encouraging. Throughout my time in New York I want to keep my mind open to new career paths and see as many different sides of the industry as I can.

Monday Inspiration

I’ve never felt as lost as I did the first week I was here in New York alone. It was so much to take in. That week I met up with a new New York friend for coffee on my first rainy day alone. He gave me some of the best advice about New York I’ve received. He told me to watch Sex and the City. And while, I know its Sex and the City, its nothing even close to reality, but I went home and finished the whole series and then the movie. And he was right, it added some sparkle to the city on a rainy day, it helped me to start looking for the Carrie Bradshaw moments here. But most importantly it taught me that New York style is just wearing something a little bit out of your comfort zone and carrying it with confidence. People here respect you more when you’re wearing a fantastic outfit. So I started getting creative with my clothes, and the first day I wore men’s pants while running errands a real New Yorker complimented my outfit.

Feeling lost is such a normal thing in NYC but now I’ve just been looking for the sparkle.

Since I moved to New York it feels like my mind has been overwhelmed with inspiration. It’s everywhere and sometimes it's so overwhelming that I feel lost in it all. I wanted to start this segment of my blog to help me document things that inspire me in an attempt to make it all a little less intense and overwhelming. I'm thinking of it as a place to make a weird sort of list of what has been on my mind.

NYC Study Tour: The Garment District

What were your expectations of the garment district before your tour?: 

Moving to New York has been an adventure, and moving to Midtown has just been crazy. Before I moved to the city I'm not sure what I expected. Scenes from Sex and the City? Effortlessly hailing a cab like a regular old fast walking, fast talking New Yorker? The Garment District has always been this sort of fairytale that I’ve made up in my head. I always thought there would be designers running left and right and streets full of stylish people running to their stylish jobs. 

How do they differ now?:

While The Garment District might not be the movie set I had imagined it still is a beautiful little section of the city to call home for a while. There are not as many women in stilettos running to work with Vogues in hand. I think my reality is that New York is crazy and there are stylish people everywhere, they're just stylish in a different way. I still love The Garment District but I see it in a whole new light. It’s so exciting to pass by all the little fabric shops and to walk over to Bryant Park and watch the people go by. I am very grateful that the NYC Studio is nestled in The Garment District so that we had the opportunity to really become a part of this world of fashion, and live in the heart of it all. 

Describe three things that were memorable to you after your tour, and why?:

While on our scavenger hunt around The Garment District we definitely took a few wrong turns but over all we made our way pretty well. There were so many highlights to our afternoon wandering. Poking our head into Mood Fabrics and browsing their beautiful selection of designer fabrics was so inspiring to me. I texted my mom after and asked her to mail me my sewing kit! I am an avid fan of Project Runway and I always love running around Mood like I’m trying to “make it work!” Not to mention it’s always fun to search for Swatch, the shop dog, and give him a pet. You might even be able to catch him while he is on his walk in the afternoon. Walking up the steps of the New York Public Library made me feel like I was Carrie Bradshaw herself. So fun and ironic that this was on the scavenger hunt because I had just seen Sex and the City the movie for the first time the night before! You might remember this spot as her wedding venue from the first movie. If only I had her Vivienne Westwood wedding dress with me! I will definitely be back to this spot to explore a bit more and maybe even check out a book or two. Another highlight of the tour was the Fashion Walk of Fame. I didn't know that this existed so stumbling upon it while we were out was amazing. It’s such an interesting stretch of all my fashion icons, Marc Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta, Diane Von Furstenberg. While The Garment District may not be as glamorous as I had expected I definitely can see how this city pushed all my favorite designers to be who they are today. 

A Salute to Septemeber

 I remember seeing The September Issue when I was in middle school. It was the first time I had heard of Anna Wintour or my now idol, Grace Coddington, and most importantly it was when I fell in love with a realistic depiction of the fashion world. Shortly after seeing The September Issue I dragged my older sister down to our public library’s book sale and begged her to buy me old Vogues for ten cents a piece. I remember seeing the Vogue that was featured in The September issue and being so fascinated by the magical images that Grace Coddington created. 

Fast forward to now, lets just say 2017 is very different than those blissful young summers in 2009. As a young woman in this country its hard to not be involved in our political climate when it comes to fashion. This fashion world today is evolving, its progressive, its new, and its expanding our view of beauty. For years, discussions of race, gender, sexuality, and age, have been at the forefront of the fashion world. It feels like very recently politics have been a part of every aspect of our lives, and if you aren’t making a statement you aren’t keeping up with the times. Which is why I was very surprised to see so many September issues this season that featured caucasian cover stars. Vogue, chose Jennifer Lawerence as their cover star because as Anna Wintour says “who embodies this countries optimism and openness more than Jennifer?” While I beg to differ on this subject I felt the cover was classic and elegant especially for Vogue’s 125^th anniversary. 

Vogue also kept things interesting by creating not one but four covers for this years September issue. Three by photographers who have a history of working with Vogue and a stunning renaissance inspired painted portrait of Lawerence by John Currin a New York based painter. While this Vogue lacked diversity in it’s cover they made up for it in their content. Stories on LeBron James and his wife (representing my hometown of Cleveland), Oprah, Serena Williams, and Iman all on touching issues including the death of David Bowie, and raising the graduation rate in Cleveland area schools. A nice finishing touch on this anniversary Vogue was the pages upon pages of personalized ads all reading “Congratulations on 125 years!” flooding the center of the magazine. It’s clear that Vogue is a seasoned player when it comes to September issues and the obvious winner here. Even thought Vogue has some minor flaws, it combines fashion with editorials and captivating stories. While its hard to even begin to compare other magazines to the pages of Vogue, I guess we can try. Other magazines have become more focused spotting trends and digesting them for their readers. There is very little written content which makes these magazines feel more like fast fashion and less of an experience. The pages of InStyle, Marie Claire, Bazzar, Glamour, and Elle, identified the newest ways to have “It girl” style. Western themes, velvet, animal prints, and metallic shine are all on the forefront of the fashion world this season.

While the fashion trends may have changed since that summer in 2009 when I bought four dollars worth of ten cent Vogues, my love and infatuation for fashion has stayed the same. Its amazing to me the continuous amount of creativity and imagination that teems from the pages of magazines. It brings me back to the Nigel monologue from the ever iconic movie The Devil Wears Prada, “Don't you know that you are working at the place that published some of the greatest artists of the century? Halston, Lagerfeld, de la Renta. And what they did, what they created was greater than art because you live your life in it. Well, not you, obviously, but some people.” I think about this quote so often, especially while I’ve been here in New York. It’s so special to be living in the pages of magazines everyday here.